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Operation & Maintenance

Please see below for answers to commonly asked questions about our watches and instructions for:

Changing Straps, Spring Bars & Screw Tubes

Fitting a Bracelet, Split Pins and Screw Bars

Operating a Deployant Clasp

Basic Operations - Winding, Power Reserve and Screw-Down Crowns

Date & Time Setting, Hacking Feature

Chronograph Operation

Routine Maintenance

Anything else

 

CHANGING STRAPS & BRACELETS 

For additional insight and instruction into any of the below, there are many illustrative videos on YouTube.

Your watch's bracelet and strap are attached to the case using spring bars, or with the Acionna, screw-tubes

Spring Bars can be removed by using either a spring-bar tool or tweezers. If the lugs on your watch are drilled through, any thing thin enough and long enough to poke through the lugs will work. Spring-bar tools are available online for only a few dollars. 

To remove or tighten screw tubes, you should not need to have two drivers working from either side of the lugs. Applying pressure to one side with a finger is generally enough to keep it from turning. Using two drivers at once should only be necessary if you find both ends turning together.

When removing the tubes - the screws that go into the screw tubes are very tiny. Be sure you are working in a clean, well-lit area when removing them. 

If a screw-tube is difficult to slide out, it may be necessary to push it out from the other side. The screw-tubes are not threaded on the outsideOnce the screw comes out, continuing to turn the tube does nothing. Hold the end-link of the bracelet tight against the case to relieve pressure on the tube when sliding it out. 

While reinserting the tubes - It may help to use a set of tweezers to grab the screw and drop it into the hole in the lug, hold it in with your finger, then insert the screw tube from the other side. It takes a little bit of manual dexterity, and may take one or two swaps for you to get the hang of it, but it's easy after that.

If you notice your screw tubes becoming loose as you wear your watch, a very small dab of mild-grade loctite, or even some clear nail polish, should guarantee you've always got a very secure tube. Only use loctite if you notice the screw becoming looser over time. 

If you are having trouble getting the tubes back into the lugs
and bracelet end-links, it may help to put a very slight bend in the tubes using pliers.

Take your time when doing swaps, and don't over-torque the tubes with the driver. It's easy to slip and gouge the side of your watch. Some people will apply some masking tape around the lugs when doing swaps. It only takes 30 seconds longer to do a swap if you take your time and are careful.

 

FITTING YOUR BRACELET

Your bracelet has removable links, allowing your bracelet to fit a variety of wrist sizes. 

These links may be joined by split-pins, which push out with the right amount of pressure using a bracelet sizing tool (also available online for a few dollars). Look inside the bracelet to find the little arrows indicating the right direction for getting the split-pins out. Re-insert them in the opposite direction, against the arrows, with the folded end pointed inward.

Trying to force the split-pins in the wrong direction can cause them to become lodged inside the link, and you will need a jewelry repair shop or watchmaker to drill them out. 

The links may also be joined by screw-bars, which will need to be un-screwed first, then pushed out. When re-inserting the screw-bars, it is advisable to use a small dab of Loc-tite or clear nail polish on the threads, to keep the bar from backing itself out.

Some bracelet clasps will also have a number of micro-adjustment holes available for getting the perfect fit. The links attach to the clasp with spring bars, which can be moved to different micro-adjustment holes. Be aware that on the NTH Azores and Antilles clasp, these holes are not meant to be used, as the clasp has a ratcheting expansion feature for best fit.

If your bracelet is still too large, even with all removable links taken out, a jeweler or watch repair shop can remove additional links.

 

OPERATING A DEPLOYANT CLASP

Some watches come with straps which are fastened by a expanding, butterfly-style deployant clasp, which will sit between the strap and your wrist when closed. These deployant clasps are attached with spring bars. The clasp can be detached and used with other straps, so long as they are the same width at the clasp. Once fitted to your wrist, the deployant clasp will allow you to put on and remove the watch more quickly and easily, with less wear and tear on the strap.

To size the clasp to your wrist, start by squeezing the buttons on either side of the 'butterfly' catch to release and expand the clasp. The buckle on the detached end of the clasp is hinged. Gently pry it open to expose the prong. Once the buckle is open, slide the strap through it, and insert the prong of the buckle into whichever hole gives you the most comfortable fit, then close the buckle by pressing the prong into the hole until you feel or hear the buckle click.

With the buckle closed, the clasp is now attached to both ends of the strap and your watch is ready to be worn. With the deployment clasp expanded, slide the watch over your hand, then fold the clasp against your wrist by bringing both ends of the strap together. Secure the clasp by pressing both ends down until they click into place.

 

BASIC OPERATIONS

Some basic information about mechanical movements is below. Please familiarize yourself with the operation of the particular movement used in your watch, as damage can be caused inadvertently.

Automatic Winding - All our movements are automatic, which means they wind themselves while being worn. The motion of your arm causes the rotor to swing back and forth, charging the power reserve (see "Power Reserve" below)

You can also spin the rotor by holding the watch in your hand, parallel to the ground, and flicking your wrist back and forth. You may hear the rotor spinning sometimes, which is normal.

Hand-Winding - Some movements can also be hand-wound by turning the crown clockwise (away from you, or towards the right). If the crown is the screw-down type it will need to be unscrewed before you can hand-wind the watch (see "Screw-down Crown" below).

While hand-winding, you may feel a slight mechanical vibration coming through the crown, or hear a high-pitched mechanical sound. Because it is an automatic, it is not possible to damage the movement by over-winding it.

Power Reserve - When fully wound, our watches have a 38-44 hour power reserve, which means they will run for almost two days with no further winding. Full power may require up to 30-40 turns when hand-winding, or a full-day's wear, but only a few turns are typically required to get the movement going before you wear it. 

Screw-down Crown - Some models have crowns which must be screwed down to ensure water resistance, and must be unscrewed in order to be hand-wound, or set the date and time.

If your watch's crown is the screw-down type, do not wear or store your watch with the crown un-screwed, as this may let moisture or dust into the case.

It should only take a few counter-clockwise turns for the crown to pop out and be in winding position, where it can be turned clockwise to wind the movement. 

To re-tighten, push the crown in towards the case while turning clockwise, like you would with a child-proof bottle. Do not over-tighten the crown, as it may damage the case tube.

Some screw-down crowns may require applying a slight amount of lateral pressure in order to be returned from time-setting to date-setting or winding position. This does not interfere with operation or increase wear on the crown stem, and may get easier as the crown is broken in. We have posted a video demonstrating the crown operation to YouTube.

 

DATE & TIME SETTING

Proper time/date setting - In order to avoid damaging the date-set mechanism, and ensure the date changes at the correct time, do not change the date between 9pm and 4am.

When setting the time on a watch which has stopped, and/or if you are unsure if the time shown is am or pm, advance the hands until you see the date change, so you know the time shown is "am". Then, set the watch to the current time, and then set the date. 

For the Seiko NH35, be aware that the date is set by turning the crown counter-clockwise.

Hacking - Most of the movements in our watches are 'hacking' movements, which means the second hand will stop while the time is being set. This allows for higher accuracy when time-setting. Some movements are non-hacking, meaning the seconds hand will NOT stop when you set the time.

 

CHRONOGRAPH OPERATION

A chronograph is a watch with a stopwatch function. The chronograph is operated using the buttons, or pushers, on either side of the crown. 

To start the chronograph, push the top pusher once. This will start the large, center-mounted seconds hand. Each time the seconds hand circles the dial, the minute accumulator sub-dial at the 3 O'Clock position will advance one mark, tracking elapsed time up to 30 minutes. Pushing the top pusher a second time will stop the seconds hand, which can then be re-started and stopped repeatedly with the top pusher.

 

To reset the chronograph, push the bottom pusher to return the seconds hand and minute counter to the zero position. The reset pusher will not work while the chronograph is running, only when it is stopped. 

 

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Most modern mechanical movements are very reliable and accurate, and will not need much maintenance in order to run well for years, if not decades. The movement in a mechanical watch may require routine servicing by a qualified watchmaker every 5 to 7 years, sometimes less frequently, depending on how often the watch is worn, and other factors.

In the United States, certified watchmakers can be found by searching the websites of the AWCI or the NAWCC. For our customers in the UK, we recommend TimeWise Services, as they are our authorized repair partners in the UK.

While your watch is under warranty, it should not require any servicingIf you believe your watch is malfunctioning or defective, please contact Janis Trading Company before having it serviced. 

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